Here is my post-race report on what I can confirm is 'The World's Hardest Endurance Trail' 330 Km and 24,000 metres of ascent, with 24,000 metres of descent, on rockiest and gnarliest trail I have ever encountered.
Monte Bianco (Mont Blanc) from Courmayeur
10th September 2011, day before race day.
On arrival at Courmayeur I was stunned by the immense grandeur of Monte Bianco ( Mont Blanc ). Looking up at the mountain and it's close neighbours it hit home as to the sheer scale of the Tor Des Geants race I was about to take part in, I was going to be ascending and descending the surrounding mountains, day and night !!
That evening I attended registration where I received my race number, bag, buff etc, and then the pre-race briefing and pasta party, meeting up with fellow Brit, Mark Barnes.
Race number, Kit bag and all important Buff
After the Pasta party I headed for a local Bistro for some more sustenance and met up with another Tor Des Geant entrant, Gabi Schenkel, the Swiss Ultra Princess on account of her running in a purple skirt and a silver tiara, and support friend Adriana Marcil. Gabi unfortunately was to retire at 170 Km after becoming ill with suspected pneumonia.
11th September 2011, Race Day !!!!!
The day dawned bright and sunny, the mercury rising up to 24oC, not ideal race conditions. After breakfast I made my way to the Start pen at the old Church in Courmayeur, the atmosphere was electric. There I met up with Mark Barnes and all the other runners.
Mark Barnes
Me at the Start, 15 minutes to go !!!
At precisely 10.00 hrs the race started. The run through the town of Courmayeur was fantastic, huge crowds lined the streets cheering all the runners, ringing insanely large cow bells, whilst a helicopter hovered overhead filming for the race video. An electric atmosphere !
Very soon we climbed out of Courmayeur and hit the forest trails, this is where the gravity of the task ahead hit home, the steepness of the ascent and the length of the ascent. The climb to the first Col, Col Arp was 1300 metres, which would turn out to be one of the easiest ascents on the entire Tor Des Geants. From Col Arp it was a descent down to the first of many checkpoints, La Thuile.
The descent to La Thuile checkpoint from Col Arp
At La Thuile it was a quick drink of Coke, some orange, a water bottle refill and then off La Joux and the climb up to Deffeyes at 2,500 m ( 8,250 feet ).
The weather remained hot and sunny, but in the distance the storm clouds were gathering. Just as luck would have it, having been roasted in 26oC on the way up to Col Haut Pass at 2,857 m ( 9,400 ft ) when I was scrambling up the last 500 ft a thunder storm struck. Being the highest thing for miles around when lightning is striking is not fun, especially in horizontal rain when negotiating 18 inch wide trail with an unprotected 1000 ft drop off the edge of it. To say my heart was in my mouth and my sphincter clenched was putting it mildly !!!
Col Haute Pass 2,857m, 30Km into the race mid Thunder storm.
I continued to run well despite the weather, however due to the rocky sharp terrain the soles of my feet were starting to hurt.
Eventually I arrived at the first life base, Valgrisenche at 43 Km, where I received my first completion medal. Here I grabbed a quick bite to eat and quickly departed, not wanting to stop this early in the race. Now I headed off into the night, runners were now spreading out, and at this stage I was in 120th place, further up the field than |I imagined I would be.
The rain gradually eased off leading to a mild night. I climbed constantly through forests, out into the open, up scree slopes, always climbing. If you imagine climbing a staircase non-stop for 5 hours that may give you some idea as to the severity of the ascents, without the Grivel running poles I would have found it impossible.
On this 2nd section I climbed twice to Cols in excess of 3000 metres, with Col Loson at a dizzy 3,296m ( 11,000 ft ), here I started to develop a cough and a slight nose bleed, which I put down to the physical exertion at altitude. Thankfully it didn't come to anything, however the soles of my feet were becoming increasingly painful, so I swallowed down 2 x voltarol and pushed on.
Day 2 The tough climb up to Col Loson 3,296 metres
Eventually I limped into Cogne, life base 2, and collected my 2nd medal. Here it was an urgent visit to the Medics, the soles of my feet were by now really painful. It turned out that the metatarsal bones in my feet had swollen, due to the pounding on the harsh terrain, and were pushing through the soles of my feet. So the Medics covered my soles with compeed patches then bound the soles with zinc oxide tape, along with a number of my toes. They then gave me some strong anti-inflammatory painkillers and explained I was good to continue. Hoorah !!!
After treatment, I've spared you the 'before' shot
After a 2 hour break, medical treatment, food and a short nap it was off onto Section 3, with 102 Kms covered. By now there had been a lot of retirals, the hard, sharp trails, constant climbs and rough descents were taking there toll.
I was fortunate that at this point I was in relatively good shape, my quads, calfs, hamstrings and joints were coping perfectly well with the demanding route, I was using regular bottles of hammer perpetuem and supplementing this with some of the checkpoint food, although I drew the line at warm beer, tepid salami and mouldy cheese.
By now I had established a good rhythm on the ascents, managing to keep a steady forward progress without expending too much energy. I was settling into the race and admiring the outstanding scenery and the friendly local cammaraderie.
I pushed on towards Donnas, life base 3, eventually arriving sunburnt, over heating and dehydrated after numerous steep climbs and descents in 26oC.
Here I had my feet re-dressed, a good feed and I had planned to sleep for an hour at least. However due to the excessive noise I decided to push on into section 4.
This was probably my first mistake of the race. I don't do well in heat, and now I was leaving the life base into what felt like a furnace. I had 1 litre in my bladder mixed with nuun electolytes and a 500ml bottle of Perpetuem. The temperature was now reading 27oC with no breeze.
I started the long steep climb out of Donnas.
On the way I passed small private vineyards among the houses. The grapes looked fantastic, big. ripe and juicy. Despite the temptation I didn't steal any, instead hoping to find a local to ask if I could have a bunch. I didn't find anyone as I trudged past the lovely grapes.
This now played on my mind as I ascended up and up into the forests above Donnas, how I now longed to taste some grapes. It's funny on Ultras how sometimes you can become fixated on an item, grapes were now this item !!
It was now a constant climb up the side of the valley along cliff edges..
1000 m above Donnas
I climbed and climbed in the heat, now sweating buckets, at around 2000 m the trail passed a small dirt car park where an Italian race follower unprompted handed me 5 grapes. I couldn't believe it, I was ecstatic and they tasted great.
I eventually reached the Rifuge Coda checkpoint, at this point the drop in temperature at altitude hit me hard, I quickly put on my montane minimus jacket for protection but I was already becoming hypothermic. I pushed on, by the time I reachedCol du Marmontana ( 2,350m ) I was dropping into moderate hypothermia, I could feel myself shutting down, just wanting to sleep, now it was night time and the temperature was around freezing. I sat by a camp fire at the checkpoint for 2 hours gradually warming up. Once my senses had started to return I moved on to the next big climb Crena du Ley ( 2311m ). This was a tough, slow and steep climb, again my core temperature plummeted and I was slowly shutting down, but managed to limp into the next checkpoint. Here I curled up into one of the emergency bivis, slept for an hour, then warmed up by the fire for am hour.
Gradually I gained control of my faculties, I was asked if I wanted to retire, a definate NO I replied, and stumbled / shuffled off to the next checkpoint.
Fortunately the sun was rising along with the temperature which gave me a much needed boost.
Recovering from Hypothermia at 8,500 ft
So I made it to life base 4, Gressoney Palazzetto, 200 Km into the race.
Here I had a massage, some more strong painkillers for my feet, a good feed and a short snooze.
I also met up with Mark Barnes who was unfortunately having to retire due to foot problems. Dressings hadn't initially been done properly and unfortunately had led to his feet resembling raw hamburger, not pretty. It was at this point I became aware I was now the only British Ultra runner left in the race, all other Brits had retired.
It was now onto Day 3, I think !!! The days were now melting into each other.
I left Gressoney in the night feeling strong. I marched off through the village and started the really steep climb up to Col Pinter ( 2,776m ). It was an arduous night, that I don't have much recollection on, I do remeber feeling on top of the world and unstoppable for some reason. It was probably down to the painkillers !! I was still fantasising about grapes as well.
Climbing again through the forests.
Section 5 for some reason I remember little about, I think this was probably a time I was becoming very insular, battling with myself, making up silly rhymes !!
I arrived at life base 5 Cretaz Valtournenche ( 236 Km ) at some time I think on day 4, picking up my 5th medal of the race.
I don't remember staying long at the base, I was now starting to have food issues, the sometimes poor choice at some of the checkpoints was having an effect. I longed for bananas, oat cakes etc, high carb items, instead I was finding, lemons, salami, beer, fizzy coke, cut oranges, dubious cheese. I was dinding this increasingly unappetising.
At 250 Km I had an 'exorcist' projectile vomit moment, I couldn't stomach the food on offer anymore or even water. My hammer perpetuem was becoming increasingly affected by the heat, and now I couldn't stomach that. I realised I was crossing into very dangerous territory. When there's no fuel going into the tank, eventually my body is going to shut down.
I pushed on determined to keep going.
I arrived at Close checkpoint, ( 271 Km ). My feet were becoming increasingly sore, the pounding they were receiving was relentless. So I went to the Medics tent to have them checked.
This was probably my single worst moment of the entire race.
I lay down on one of the medical beds, the doctor inspected my dressings and stated that they had to come off...
Now by this stage my feet were bound in zinc oxide tape, sheets of it, covering all my blisters, sores etc, the thought of this stuff being torn off along with the skin from my blisters was definately not appealing. I protested loudly both verbally and by hand signals, the doctor merely tore open a sterile dressing rolled it up, stuffed it into my mouth and said ' BITE, scream as well if you want '.
So here I am screaming my lungs out alongside another fellow runner lying in a bed beside me having the same procedure, screaming for all he was worth as well.
At some point I either passed out or fell asleep due to exhaustion, when I came round my feet had been carefully treated and re-dressed perfectly.
I was informed by the doctor that due to the concussion and swelling, my metatarsals had burst through the soles of my feet and I now had open wounds in the soles of my feet. They had packed the wounds and then rebound them with zinc oxide tape, after a strong painkiller it was back on my feet and off I trotted to the next checkpoint.
It's amazing how the human body can handle pain, I should have been crippled, yet I could shut off from the pain and keep going as I was so focused on finishing.
After a few more 9,000 ft climbs and descents I made it to the final life base, number 6, Rey Ollomont, 283.5 Km, receving my 6th race medal.
When I arrived I attempted to eat but had another projectile vomit moment in front of all the spectators and race supporters.
It was at this moment I had a 'toys out the pram' episode, making it plainly obvious what I thought of the checkpoint food and that I wanted a decent cup of tea, no lemon, no herbs, just proper tea with milk and lots of sugar.
Fortunately one of the kitchen staff took pity and hurriedly made me a huge mug of 'proper' tea, followed by another. It really lifted my spirits and gave my stomach something to try and digest.
I now struck out for the finish into the night.
It was a hellish climb, rain started, the temperature plummeted, still I was on the home straight, well just a few more 9000 ft peaks to climb.
I reached Rifuge Letey at 2,443 m, where I rested for half an hour, struggling to eat anything. I met up with some guides who were acting as 'sweepers' between the final checkpoints. They now accompanied a group of us up the next steep ascent and descent.
Huge drop just off the edge of the 18 inch wide path
I was now just past 300 Km of the race, only 30 Km to go, when suddenly without warning my eyesight started to fail. As it was night I at first thought my headtorch batteries were getting weak, but I had put in new ones just 2 hours previously. The sight came and went. I was now getting worried, my body was into the 'shutdown' phase, I'd been running on empty for too long.
One of the guides asked if I was ok in broken english, it gave me the kick I needed and my eyesight came back online. I answered 'yes'. Knowing that I had been struggling to eat, the guide gave me an energy bar which I attempted to nibble on, but it was too little too late, the damage was done.
One of the other guides, with a tattoo of a woman's face on the back of his calf, unfortuanately I never remembered their names, kept calling me ainglase ( english ), which I took offence at and made a point that I was Scotsaisee ( Scottish ). This made me more determined to finish.
So now started a silly defiance on my part not to give in.
Now the guides were there as part of the race organisation to look after the runners and I assume make sure we didn't come to any harm. However I became fixated that the guide with the tattoo didn't like me and just wanted me to give up. This is probably more down to my diminishing mental state at the time. I was also now starting to go deaf in my left ear and my balance was now affected.
The guide with the tattoo walked in front of me and periodically I would become aware of the sweeping light of his headtorch as he turned around to check my condition, at this point I would bolster myself up and try amd look in good shape. I was quickly unraveling at the seams as my body shutdown.
I was around 310 Km, the guide with the tattoo kept asking me to stop, that he will signal a 4x4 to pick me, so I can stop the pain that I was going through. Being of a stubborn nature and so close to the finish, I refused. He was not impressed.
So in defiance I started ranting nursery rhymes at him, 'Jack & Jill' and 'Humpty Dumpty'. I not aware of how loud I was, all I know is that it was designed to annoy him. I think the 'good cop' guide behind found this amusing.
So this rather ridiculous scenario continued to around 315 Km where in a short spell of sanity I was made aware by the guides it was impossible for me to reach the next checkpoint within the strict time barrier. Essentially my race was over, like it or not, 15 Km from the Finish, having covered 315 Km.
I had done everything I could to finish the race, given everything physically and mentally.
Pre-race I thought it would be my muscles and joints that would struggle, in the end it came down to nutrition, if there's nothing in the tank then inevitably the body will shut down at some point.
Was I bitter, upset????
Strangely no. I thought I would be, but I know deep down I gave everything I could. Despite the pain, the Tor Des Geants is a fantastic, life changing race. I have learnt so much of value, been immersed in the most stunning scenery and met the most fantastic people.
I will definately be back to finish the job in 2013. Next year 2012 I will be racing in the UTMB at the end of August, so not enough time to attemt the TDG in 2012.
3 hrs after finishing, after a shower. I'd been to hell and back, 5 days running and a total of 3 hrs sleep
